Thursday, December 4, 2008
Another full day of tasting yesterday was brought to a close with a visit to Domaine Dujac in Morey St-Denis. The wines were stunning as usual, especially the subtly detailed 2007 Échézeaux and the fragrant, expressive Clos St-Denis. Dinner with Jeremy Seysses and his wife Diana later that evening gave us the chance to witness Jeremy’s fireplace-grilling prowess—a set of beautiful veal chops was paired with a terrific array of wines, the quality of which was surpassed only by Jeremy and Diana’s gracious hospitality. The sole damper on the evening was the unexpected news that brooklynguy would be leaving us prematurely, due to unforeseen circumstances. After some telephone consultation, it was decided that he would take the 6:30 train from Dijon to Charles de Gaulle in the morning, and so rather than attempting anything as inherently pointless as sleep, we went back to our lodgings at the Domaine de l’Arlot and celebrated brooklynguy’s last night (or morning, rather, by this time) in France with the two 2006s represented in the above photo, which Jeremy had generously donated to our liver-degradation program. Both of these wines were absolutely, gorgeously seductive, but I must say that I was particularly taken by the Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts, only the second vintage of this wine for Dujac (and for me, an even greater wine than in the previous year). Needless to say, a fine pair of nightcaps.
Today was marked first and foremost by the hangover perniciously drilling its way into the sides of my skull. Somehow, though, that didn’t prevent me from downing my fair share of a bottle of Vincent Dauvissat’s Irancy for lunch in (guess where?) Irancy, on the way back to Champagne. As fate would have it, the day would prove to hold further adventures in store, ultimately resulting in me sitting alone at home this evening facing four open bottles of vintage Diebolt-Vallois, from 1996 to 1999, as I type this. But that’s a story for tomorrow.