Friday, November 7, 2008

Wine of the Week: Jacques Selosse Initiale Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

I am, as is undoubtedly known, a great admirer of both Anselme Selosse and his wines. Much has been written about Selosse, and there is little left to contribute to either side of the debate—I’m sure that many of you have read Eric Asimov’s most recent piece on Selosse in the NY Times, and that some of you have also read Tom Stevenson’s review of Jacques Selosse in issue 21 of The World of Fine Wine (not available online).

Unfortunately, it’s not terribly easy for the average consumer to form their own opinion, as the wines are scarce, jealously guarded and costly. While Selosse has recently been reintroduced into the American market after a long hiatus, the wines are severely allocated and distributed only to restaurants, making them even more expensive and less accessible. Here in France, they are a little easier to obtain, if you know where to look. Admittedly, they are still not cheap, and whether or not they are worth the money is entirely up to you.

I am one of those consumers who will buy V.O. as often as I can, who will bend over backwards to procure Contraste, and who is delighted to pay the money for Substance or vintage champagne if I have sufficient cash in my pocket when it is offered to me. I like drinking Selosse’s wines. The only cuvée that I am slightly ambivalent about is the Initiale, which is, of course, the easiest one to find, as it represents over two-thirds of his production. Of the comments against Selosse’s wines—that they’re too oaky, over-oxidized, overly aldehydic—I find that these apply more often to the Initiale than to the other wines. I also find a significant variation in this wine, with some bottles feeling oaky and oxidative, and others feeling terrifically energetic and lively. (It’s not as bad as, say, Marc Angeli’s La Lune, but it’s enough that I’ve found each experience with this wine to be different.)

The most recent bottle I drank was excellent, here at a restaurant in Epernay. It was disgorged on 26 October 2007, meaning that it’s likely a blend of 2003, 2002 and 2001, as Selosse ages this wine for three years on its lees. While the oak was apparent on the nose, it was accompanied by a deeply vinous intensity, and the two were integrated together in a seamless and sophisticated manner, without the oak feeling at all intrusive. It’s this vinosity that is the key to Selosse’s style, as the depth and concentration are the result of careful and deliberate work in the vines, which allows Selosse to do what he does in the cellar. (Compare this, for example, to Selosse’s neighbor De Sousa, who for me acquires richness more from winemaking than from winegrowing.) This wasn’t a terribly complex wine, but it was certainly expressive, carrying Anselme Selosse’s distinctive signature, and for me, that is perhaps the most important element. In a region where wines are often too neutral, those that stand up and declare their originality are all the more valuable.


allie said...

I adore grower champagnes and Anselme Selosse's champagnes. But it's so tough getting my hands on Jacques Selosse Substance here in Singapore. said...

air jordan retro
cheap oakleys
coach outlet store online
timberland boots
coach factory outlet
coach outlet
louis vuitton outlet
tory burch sale
michael kors outlet
michael kors outlet online
nike outlet store
toms shoes outlet online
hermes birkin bag
ralph lauren outlet
beats headphones
adidas shoes
michael kors outlet
adidas outlet
pandora jewelry
ray ban sunglasses
michael kors handbags
mont blanc
replica watches
oakley vault
kobe 11
kate spade handbags
coach factory outlet
coach outlet store online
beats wireless headphones
oakley vault
polo ralph lauren
louis vuitton handbags
nike outlet
cheap jerseys
coach factory outlet
true religion
tods shoes
gucci outlet
longchamp bags
kevin durant shoes 8

Hua Cai said...

uggs on sale
dior sunglasses
ugg boots uk
nike air force 1
nike uk store
soccer jerseys wholesale
nike air huarache
oakley sunglasses
nfl jersey wholesale
christian louboutin outlet
coach outlet online
ugg outlet
true religion canada
burberry outlet store
ugg boots
swarovski crystal
louis vuitton outlet
coach outlet online
toms shoes
louis vuitton bags cheap
ray ban sunglasses
tiffany outlet
air max 90
cheap jordan shoes
michael kors outlet
lacoste pas cher
adidas outlet store
michael kors wallet
uggs outlet
moncler outlet store
replica watches
hermes belt for sale
true religion uk
cheap nfl jerseys
rolex watches

caiyan said...

michael kors outlet
cheap ugg boots
coach factory outlet
louis vuitton outlet
ugg boots
true religion outlet
timberland boots
michael kors handbags
kobe shoes
adidas nmd

chenlina said...

louis vuitton outlet
borse louis vuitton
jordan 13
chaussures christian louboutin
ugg boots
ray ban sunglasses
timberland outlet
michael kors outlet
hollister outlet
adidas yeezy

Cara Mengobati Sakit Ulu Hati said...

Thank you for presenting information of interest .. wooow outstanding

Obat Kurap Paling Mujarab
Cara Mengobati Masalah Telinga
Pengobatan Pneumonia Secara Efektif
Pengobatan Miom Tanpa Operasi
Obat Alternatif Sakit Kepala Menahun
Cara Menurunkan Kadar Leukosit Tinggi

shengda xu said...

ed hardy clothing
coach factory outlet
coach outlet
coach factory outlet
cheap ray bans
cheap ray ban sunglasses
ralph lauren outlet online
moncler outlet
christian louboutin sale
detroit tigers jerseys

raybanoutlet001 said...

polo ralph lauren
ugg boots
ralph lauren
jordan 4
coach outlet
cheap basketball shoes
ugg boots
atlanta falcons jerseys
versace jeans
nike store

qqq said...

coach canada
birkenstock sandals
nike store
longchamp handbags
adidas superstar shoes
adidas superstar
polo ralph lauren outlet
cheap jordans
hermes birkin
cheap nfl jerseys