Ironically (and unfortunately), I drink much less Pierre Péters here in France than I do in the United States. It’s true that I am in the fortunate position of being able to drive down to the estate to buy wine, but due to Péters’s rabid cult of European clientele, the wines sell out very quickly, and there is very little domestic distribution—a few restaurants, maybe, but not a single retailer that I can think of. Happily, it’s everywhere in the States, and I drink it frequently whenever I am there.
This week I drank the Cuvée de Réserve at home in Dizy, having procured a bottle at the estate in Le Mesnil. This bottle still carries the old label, pictured on the right in the above photo, although Péters is about to change the label to something much more modern, on the left. The wine, thankfully, remains the same. It’s currently based on 2005, with about 30 percent of reserve wine, and it’s incredibly, dangerously delicious to drink: full of ripe tangerine and mandarin orange fruitiness, it feels perfectly balanced by its vivid acidity, simply inviting you to drink more. Perhaps it’s just because I’m currently in the midst of writing billions (okay, hundreds) of tasting notes on German wines for Wine & Spirits, but the balance and poise here feels akin to that of a Mosel Kabinett, even if this is at a lower level of sugar. The bottle, alas, disappeared far too quickly, proving yet again that champagne ought to be purchased in magnums.
Pierre Péters is imported by Terry Theise Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, and the suggested retail price for the Cuvée de Réserve is $58.