I haven’t always been a big fan of Pierre Moncuit’s wines, but I’m very impressed with the current releases. The bottle of Cuvée Pierre Moncuit-Delos that I tasted this week is entirely from 2005, and as always, it’s 100-percent Le Mesnil-sur-Oger as well. The Mesnil character is immediately evident, with an intense chalkiness shaping and defining the flavors of citrus and green apple. It’s pure and harmonious on the palate, and I like that it’s stern without being overly austere — it demonstrates the linear, racy character of the cru but you can still drink it without hurting yourself.
It’s more difficult than you might think to find pure Mesnil champagne that’s both good and affordable, and Pierre Moncuit’s wines fit both criteria. Pierre Moncuit is imported into the United States by Vintage ’59, Washington, DC.