Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Not Your Typical Jacques Selosse Wine


I decided to post this photo that I took yesterday, as I love the dramatic natural light. This is Anselme Selosse disgorging a bottle of Ambonnay rosé, as my reward for being cheeky enough to ask to taste rosé. Selosse’s “normal” rose (as if anything here could be called remotely normal) is a rosé d’assemblage, made of Oger chardonnay blended with a small percentage of Ambonnay pinot noir, but this particular bottle is of something entirely different.

This is pure Ambonnay pinot noir, all from 2004, macerated for about eight hours before pressing. It was sulfured only once, at the beginning, so the color is a little “gris” rather than brightly pink, but the fruit remains deliciously fresh, with a silky texture and long, complex, spicy aromas. There’s a bold depth of flavor here, but overall this emphasizes the finesse of Ambonnay rather than the power, and the finish is gorgeous, going on and on in elegant, detailed length. This is one of the three best rosés I’ve drunk all year (and for whatever reason, I’ve been drinking a lot of rosé this year). God only knows when he’s going to ever release it (it is Selosse, after all), but I highly doubt that it will be either inexpensive or widely available. Nevertheless, something to look forward to.

22 comments:

Sharon said...

Ooh! Lucky you! I am green with envy. Tasted this from barrel in an embryonic stage and would love to try the finished product. Thanks for the post, though I now have an intense urge to head back to Avize. :)

David Morris said...

Sharon, was this the one we tried in April?

Sorry Peter to use your comments section for personal communications!

cheers,

David M.

Chief of Lab Research said...

Peter, I gotta know... when you write these envy-inducing posts with such casual aplomb, are you at least grinning like the cat that ate the bird?

I remain enthralled.

cheers,
J David

PS. It is a lovely photo.

Peter Liem said...

Hi Chief,
I do realize how fortunate I am to be doing the things that I do. It's a load of fun.

David,
No problem, feel free to chat away!

Sharon,
Let me know when you guys come here again!

Sharon said...

David, he talked about it, but we didn't taste it. We tasted a Mareuil barrel sample that was somewhat pinkish (will be one of the new cuvées, Vide-Bourse). I tasted the rosé d'infusion last November, though.

Peter, absolutely! Though David lives in Australia, so he might not be on hand...

David McDuff said...

Peter,

Seconding everything that J. David wrote, I'm also taken by the cutout barrel that you've pictured Selosse using for dégorgement à la volée. Have you seen similar setups at many other estates?

cheers,
David

Peter Liem said...

Actually, yes, many people have such a setup, with a small barrel to catch all of the flying goo that emerges from a disgorged bottle. Today some producers have fancier, stainless steel contraptions that function in the same way, but lots of people just use old barrels like that, too.

Anonymous said...

When Selosse says that the wine is macerated for 8 hours before pressing; what does he mean? Is the wine just sitting in picking bins? Destemmed, placed in a bin and tread by foot? Lightly pressed, and then (the wine from this first pressing) pumped back over the grape, before being pressed again, more completely eight hours later? Where does the liquid for the extraction come from. Are the grapes de-stemmed or not???

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