Last week I took a short trip down to the Côte des Bar, in the Aube, to visit a few winegrowers. On the recommendation of a friend, I spent the night at a beautiful chambre d’hôte, or bed and breakfast, called La Roseraie, which I would wholeheartedly recommend to you.
La Roseraie lies on the banks of the Ource River, in the small, quiet village of Essoyes. The village’s main claim to fame is that it was the summer home of Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and the great painter is also buried here, together with his family. In terms of wine, Essoyes is located in the Barséquanais, in convenient proximity to such champagne producers as Dosnon & Lépage, Drappier, Serge Mathieu, Cédric Bouchard and Moutard Père et Fils. It’s also very close to Les Riceys, home of the famous Rosé des Riceys.
La Roseraie’s two buildings date from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and are surrounded by an idyllic and verdant garden. The four guest rooms, ranging from 95 to 105 euros per night, are spacious and well-appointed, offering peaceful and welcome repose after long days of winetasting! Before purchasing the property, Marie-Claude and Pierre, La Roseraie’s hospitable and charming proprietors, used to own a restaurant in Paris, and if you request ahead it’s possible to dine with the couple on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Marie-Claude is a superb cook, and it’s a joy to partake of her generous and hearty French country cuisine, sourced from fresh and local produce. Be sure to ask her ahead of time to make her outstanding gougères. In addition, the couple have relationships with several champagne producers in the area, and love to introduce their guests to the local wines.
La Roseraie, 6 quai de l’Ource, 10360 Essoyes