Thursday, April 10, 2008

François Domi on the 2007 Vintage

I spent the afternoon yesterday with François Domi, chef de cave of Champagne Billecart-Salmon, tasting wines and talking about the 2007 vintage. “[The 2007s] are very aromatic, focused more on delicacy and finesse than on structure,” says Domi. “In 2005 and 2006 we had wines that were very powerful in structure, but sometimes they miss something in the fruit. This year we’ve found the fruit again, but it’s in a light and delicate package.”

Among the three varieties, he notes a strong preference for pinot noir. “The chardonnay turned out well after the fermentations, but they’re a little light. They’re very straightforward and correct, there aren’t any defaults at all, but the chardonnay suffers from just a little bit of dilution. There are very good pinot noirs, though, particularly from Verzenay, and also Mareuil and Aÿ. We’re definitely going to make a millésime, because we have very beautiful pinot. For the chardonnay, I don’t know. We may make a vintage blanc de blancs although I haven’t decided yet. But Nicolas François and Elisabeth Salmon will definitely both be made.”

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