I could never tire of drinking Clos des Goisses. The vertical tasting in London a few weeks ago was magnificent, but this weekend I wanted to do something slightly different: a tasting of different types of wine produced from the Clos.
The classic wine from the Clos des Goisses is, of course, a champagne made from roughly 60 percent pinot noir and 40 percent chardonnay. But in 1999, Philipponnat made the first-ever rosé champagne from the Clos, which offers a whole new perspective on this terroir. Unbeknownst to most people, Philipponnat also produces a tiny amount of still white wine from the Clos des Goisses, bottled as Coteaux Champenois. (There is also a 2004 red Coteaux Champenois mis-labeled as Clos des Goisses. This wine, however, actually comes from an adjacent vineyard called Les Remissons, which has historically been considered part of the Clos but which Philipponnat has never included in the blend for the champagne. As the quantity produced is so tiny, and is in fact not really commercially available, they can hardly be accused of misleading marketing, but if you do happen to run across a bottle of it, just remember this.)
Our tasting included all of the above wines, and it was extremely intriguing to see the same vineyard expressed in so many different fashions. As far as I know, there is no other vineyard in Champagne – or anywhere else, for that matter - that produces still wine, sparkling wine and sparkling rosé. It’s a completely novel way to look at terroir.
And yes, the Clos des Goisses rosé is stunning.
My complete notes from this evening can be found here.